Gymkhana London - An unpolished diamond

Indian food in Britain can be very good. Indian food has a slightly different look and feel in Britain as compared to back in India. You have Bangladeshi Indian food, Pakistani Indian food, Gujarati and Panjabi from East Africa Indian food, Sri Lankan Indian food, the usual Indian food made by Indians [Gujarati, Panjabi, and South Indian] and the upmarket Indian food being the domain of the Michelin boys. Over the last 20 years we have had just three meals at Indian restaurants that we have ourselves chosen to go to. These were Karahi King [a Pakistani place in Wembley] Three Red Chillies [also Pakistani] and a few days ago Gymkhana which has just got a Michelin Star.

We have been taken to or been invited to some others, most notably by Atul Kochar, who is HRH The Queen of Kutch’s friend, to his Michelin Starred Benaras [very good]. We have also eaten at Camelia Punjabis Amaya [horrid - which also has a Michelin Star] and Masala Zone [also horrid]. New Asian Tandoori [very middling] Tayyabs [quite good] and Lahore Kebab House [quite good] are others we have eaten at.

By and large the Indian food in the non Michelin star places is variations of the masala laden oily rich food available at Delhi Durbar and Persian Durbar and others like this in Mumbai. The quality of the meat and the spices being better, results in the food being better, but it is nothing unusual or exceptional. This food is best described by Vineet Bhatia [who is a far better chef than he a TV host] as being `macho’ – i.e. greasy spicy and overly rich.

The Michelin starred Indian restaurants – Amaya, Rasoi, Tamarind, Quilon, Benaras, Trishna and now Gymkhana all serve versions of standard Indian food but with either luxury ingredients or with unusual plating combinations. None of them have the Gagan Anand / Masala Library type of so called Molecular Gastronomy where the height of gastronomy is variations of Gol Guppas and Papri Chaat treated with Sodium Alginate. Gimmickry is not part of these UK based chefs repertoire. They all generally have traditional food. And, thank God for that. Also the spicing and oil is under control, and the food is not, as so aptly described, `macho’.

Gymkhana is the second restaurant by Karam Sethi. Sethi is a self taught chef who has had some professional experience at Zuma, the Oberoi in Delhi before becoming a caterer. His first restaurant was Trishna in London which, when it opened, had an extremely confusing story as to whether it was part of Trishna Mumbai or not, and, what exactly was the connection. Anyway, that seems to have been sorted out over time, there is no connection.  Then, last year Sethi opened, Gymkhana in the heart of Mayfair. The restaurant was reviewed by Giles Coren the respected food critic for the London Times who gave it absolute rave reviews. I quote –

“So that’s 3 visits in 5 days. I’ve now eaten 25 of the 34 savoury dishes. Every one was out of this world that’s three times in five days. I have never done that before. Never ever gone back twice to a new restaurant within less than a week. And do you want to know why I did? Because Gymkhana is the best restaurant I have ever been to.”

High praise indeed.

With this kind of review, we had to go to Gymkhana. So, as is our wont, we booked and arrived there on time. We could smell the restaurant [the Kasoori Methi, the grease, the Masalas] a full 50 meters before we arrived. What an arrival! To be assaulted by, frankly, India. Noise, smells, confusion, everyone running about helter skelter. Soon we were seated. The din and cacophony in the restaurant along with the clatter, yes, clatter of knives and forks falling to the un carpeted floor were such a contradistinction to the previous night at Le Gavroche. Here it was all shiny reflective surfaces and uncoordinated service staff adding to the din.

We looked at each other took deep breaths and steeled ourselves. Menus were handed out and drinks ordered. We had decided that we would not drink any wine or Champagne. So we stuck to Gin & Tonics, a Sipsmith with Fentimens Tonic and a slice of Orange for the Queen and a Gordons and Schweppes Tonic for me.

The din was fairly loud. Looking around we saw (i) lots of UK `Desis’ with their gelled hair and their gals (ii) everyone in casual clothes, jeans, T Shirts and so on. Out of respect for the Michelin Star I wore a suit and HRH the Queen was dressed in her finest. The Captains/Stewards in the restaurant were dressed like Jeetendra or Amitabh - trousers, white shirts with no ties, open at the collar and jackets. Do you not take yourselves seriously? The manner of speaking was part aggression, part pride and totally Desi. At one point an obvious regular walked in to be greeted with `Welcome Yaar’... I mean what the fuck. Really!

Teeth gritted, we ordered. For starters we asked for 3 dishes. Kheema Sali and Pao, Amritsar Shrimp & Queenies and lastly, Dosa Chettinad Duck and Chutney. Queenies are small Scallops. So the Fried Shrimp and Queenies was basically Amritsar fried fish. This was delicious, truly good. Great shrimp and scallop, good batter, fried at the correct temperature so was not oily. A very good dish served steaming hot. It was irresistible. Probably the best Amritsar fried fish I have ever eaten, including in Amritsar.

Amritsar Shrimp & Queenies with Dill Raita

The Kheema was lukewarm, Tragic. Very tasty but lukewarm. Karam Sethi had shared his recipe for Kheema in the London Times a few months ago. We had followed it and found that the results were excellent. We now always make Kheema using his recipe. The problem here was, though very tasty, the dish was not served at the correct temperature. I must say that the whole dish was as authentic as one at a Irani Cafe in Mumbai. The Dosa with Duck Chettinad was similarly lukewarm. Once again tragic.

Dosa with Duck Chettinad and Coconut Chutney

The Duck Chettinad uncovered from under the Dosa

Kheema Sali

The Pao and Kanda to accompany

I believe that this goes back to the problem with Indian food. Everything is pre made and kept in a vat. We simply have not learnt how to adapt our cooking techniques to enable food to be pre made partly and finished on order. The problem is further compounded by the over intellectualisation by these hot Chefs. In most Indian restaurants in India you have vats of pre made gravy – a Makhni, a Brown and a White. These are added to the semi finished dish and the dish finally made and served fire hot to you. In fact, Amarpal Singh Gandhi the owner of Great Punjab has said that the most boring part of his job is, tasting the gravies every morning. This style of cooking is looked down on by the hot chefs. So, what do you get, vats of food, all lukewarm. Sad sad sad.

For our main course we had ordered a Wild Muntjac Biryani, Pomegranate & Mint Raita and Partridge Pepper Fry. Muntjac is a Barking Deer that is native to England. The Biryani was very good. It was steaming hot, it was flavourful, aromatic and the rice cooked perfectly. The Deer was lovely and soft and, being robust took the spicing very well. The Biryani was served with a `Purdah’ made of not the usual `Aata’ but Puff Pastry with a sprinkling of Rose Water, Cucumber Seeds and Kallonji. Very well done. I took a few bits of the `Purdah’ to taste and it was perfectly edible. This was a good dish by any standards. The Partridge Pepper Fry was also very good, though, once again, suffering from the lukewarm problem. This was a South Indian Style dish with lots of whole Peppercorns and was served with a Malabar Paratha. This was one of the better Malabar Parathas I have ever eaten, it was crisp, flaky and chewy all at the same time, as it should be. 

Wild Muntjac Biryani

The Biryani after removing the Purdah

Pomegranate & Mint Raita. The Rose Petal were a delightful touch

Partridge Pepper Fry

Malabar Paratha

Leaving aside the lukewarm issue, the food was really very good. It was flavoured and spiced really well. The food was not `macho’ by any standards, nor was it bland. Simply imagine cooking at home with all spices lowered in proportion. The food smelt great and tasted wonderful. I must point out that like all Indian food, it looks and photographs, literally, like shit. Sorry about this analogy, but I am sure you will agree, our curries look like s**t. 

Alas, despite the good food, we could not bear the cacophony, the confusion and the general nuttiness of the service. We asked for the bill and left. We bought an ice cream on the way home from the supermarket, had a couple of more Gin & Tonics at home and retired.

All in all, good food. The service was nuts, the noise and clatter also nuts. Frankly, food apart, it was like being at Olive or Indigo Deli for the noise with good non `macho’ Delhi Durbar food.

Worth a Michelin star. Most certainly not. Is Benaras better, oh yes, much better? Far better food and far less noise and confusion.

Possibly the Michelin Star and the adulation is resulting in this confusion. Hopefully it will settle down and he will get rid of the Indian staff and install some carpeting. Then Gymkhana will be ready. Today it is an unpolished diamond.

Le Gavroche - No 1 favourite

Dinner was to be at Le Gavroche. It has become extremely difficult getting a table here; this is probably due to the appearance of both Michel Roux Jr and his Sous Chef Monica Galetti on Masterchef UK the Professionals. Reservations are available up to three months in advance by date. For example, if you wish to book for September 25, the earliest you can make the request is June 25. Let me assure you that this requires a lot of gymnastics to match reservations, flights, hotel bookings and so on. Anyway I am not complaining.

This post has no photographs. So just to keep you interested, here is one of a juicy Pork Chop, some Brussels Sprouts sauted with Bacon and some Roast Potato we made for dinner a day before Gavroche.

It was a rainy evening so armed with umbrellas we arrive at the appointed time to be welcomed back and escorted to our table. Of course, the `welcome back’ greeting is not a sign of memory but simply effective use of a computer and briefing of the staff before each service. All in all, though I am cynical about it, this does sound nice and welcoming.

The dining room at the Gavroche is below street level. So you enter at street level where there is a small waiting are and a full bar and then you are escorted down two flights of stairs. Once you are in, the feeling of dignity, grace and peace are quite something. The dining room is carpeted and the walls have padding. The result is a soft hum of conversation and the light tinkling of knives and forks. The room exudes class. Everyone is speaking in hushed tones and everyone is dressed formally, men in suits and women all dressed-up as well. It is really pleasant just sitting there.

We had our glasses of Champagne, our Canapés and our Amuse Bouche, which, that evening was Scallop Ceviche. Then it was time for our starters.

HRH the Queen of Kutch ordered an absolute knockout starter. This was an Artichoke on which were two slices of Foie Gras, which was covered with a Chicken Mousse garnished with slices of Black Truffle and steamed. Once this was plated, at the table, a healthy serving of Sauce Perigord was poured on. My God, the aroma of Truffle in the Sauce literally enveloped the table. Sauce Perigrod originates from the Perigord region of France renowned for growing Truffles. The sauce is made with reduced Veal Stock, Truffles and Madeira. It is a wonderful sauce to accompany a most wonderful dish. True Haute Cuisine. Fit for the Queen. Several luxury ingredients effectively used. The dish was a real knockout.

My starter was far more, shall we say, proletariat. Just the cheapest ingredients, Pork Cheeks smoked and slow cooked, Pork Crackling as a crunchy garnish and Pork Belly chopped up filled into a sort of Wonton and fried. This was accompanied by a Barbeque Sauce. I kid you not, this dish was a play on the cheapest cuts of pork, the cheeks were cooked in an American Barbeque style and served with a smokey, sweet sour barbeque sauce. It was delicious in every way, but this was not Haute Cuisine. I guess royalty eats like Royalty with the luxury ingredients, while we the proletariat are left with the off cuts. This has been the case from the very beginning of time, and, continues till this day. Sigh! 

A few thoughts on the black Truffles that are now in season: Truffles are a fungus, they look like Walnuts except they are black and slightly misshapen. They are a truly luxury ingredient. Now think of a new flat in Mumbai being offered to you by a builder. It comes with very fancy bathrooms. This fancy bathroom is like a Truffle in the hands of a restaurateur. Let me explain why. If you were left alone you would never make a bathroom as fancy as that given by a builder. A builder will order all the fittings at project cost i.e. in bulk and this will be at a price you yourself cannot get. Then he sells you the bathroom at a normal price plus premium. This is just how the Truffle mystique works. Truffles are in season in Autumn. Truffles cannot be bought in a shop by you and me. They are sold to just a few customers. They are bought at highly negotiated prices. Then the restaurateur makes a dish and tells you it has Truffles and sells it at a huge mark up. Mind you truffles are delicious. A few months ago we had a meal at Alain Ducasse restaurant in London and asked for Truffles on our meal. Each portion cost GBP 40 that is Rs 4000 per person just for the Truffles. At the Gymkhana, which I will next write about, they have a dish – Mushroom Methi Mutter Pulao – which costs GBP 15 and if you add Truffles you pay GBP 10 more. The supplement for the Truffles is 66% of the cost of the whole dish. It’s like saying a squeeze of Limbu on your Kebab will be 66% of the cost of your kebab. Such is the mystique of Truffles and the free hand rapacious restaurateurs have to charge you for the privilege of serving them to you.

The main course was truly delicious. Again it was a rustic dish – a Raan. It was in reality a baked leg of baby lamb. Baked to perfection, served with a Jus with Tomato and some Dried Olives, Roast Potato and Roast Garlic. Truly delicious and truly melt in the mouth.

Michel Roux then came to greet people in the restaurant. That was really a bonus. The man is utterly charming, devastatingly handsome and a truly influential and inspirational chef. It was a pleasure shaking his hand. HRH the Queen was thrilled to bits getting a hug from him.

Then it was time for dessert. We were really full. So I thought why not have a homemade ice cream, made by a master chef. Good grief. It was superlative. The texture, the flavours were simply amazing. Nothing complex, a simple Vanilla ice cream, a Coffee and a White Chocolate. A super end to a super evening.

Le Gavroche is still my favourite restaurant in the world.  

The madness and the romance

It has been quite some time since the last post. Apologies. I have been frightfully busy with professional work. Demands were made on `my’ time which unfortunately left me no opportunities to blog. Well, on Friday 10^th October we flew out on vacation. I now have time and mental bandwidth.

Just before we left the country, I had opportunity to witness the madness and insanity that is typically Indian. One morning, waiting to pay the toll on the Bandra Worli Sealink getting into South Bombay, I saw this insanity at work. I was so happy, India was alive and well. The extreme left lane is for cars that have an electronic tag to enable them to use the Sea Link without stopping for payment of the toll. There is an electronic tag on the car, a reader on the road and a sensor that lifts the barrier. All very simple, all totally regular technology available all around the world. In India of course this simple device had failed, at peak hours. The connection between the barrier and the sensor was kaput. So what do our boys managing the toll collection do? They ask a man to hold a broken traffic separator and become a human barrier. Two other gents, similarly gainfully employed look at the sensor and once it records the arrival of a car they indicate to Ganpat the Human Barrier to lower his arm with broken traffic separator and allow the car to pass. Brilliant. Please see the photo.

We were flying on Emirates to the UK. I am quite fed up with British Airways. Yes they have direct flights, a brilliant terminal – Terminal 5 at Heathrow and brilliant connections all over Europe, but British Airways has become absolutely third rate. After paying all that money you get no value. BA has old aircraft, terrible entertainment systems and mediocre food with cost cutting being applied everywhere. So Emirates it was for us. Not only were the tickets cheaper but the product is so much superior. We are on holiday; a couple of hour’s layover in Dubai waiting for a connection is not something that bothered us.

I am sure you remember reading stories recounting the romance of flying. In 1939 the rich and famous paid USD 675 to fly on the Boeing 314 a Sea Plane, across the Atlantic. This was luxury travel. The faithful Wikipedia says this about the flights.

“Pan Am's "Clippers" were built for "one-class" luxury air travel, a necessity given the long duration of transoceanic flights. The seats could be converted into 36 bunks for overnight accommodation. The 314s had a lounge and dining area, and the galleys were crewed by chefs from four-star hotels. Men and women were provided with separate dressing rooms, and white-coated stewards served five and six-course meals with gleaming silver service. The standard of luxury on Pan American's Boeing 314s has rarely been matched on heavier-than-air transport since then.”

This was in 1939, an unbelievable 75 years ago! Let me tell you that Emirates have come close to achieving that. You get a seat that becomes a flat bed at the press of a button. The Air Hostess will make a bed up for you; no she will not tuck you in, even if you ask nicely. You have a bar on board where you can stand and drink what you want and eat bar snacks. When your meal is ready you can go to your seat and eat. You have movies, music, TV shows to watch. And, since this is 2014 and you need to stay in touch, you also have internet on board. So you can WhatsApp your pals, SMS them, send and receive Emails. And the aircraft? Well the A 380 is really a class above everything else; it is amazingly silent and extremely gentle in flight. Flying on Emirates, long haul, on an A 380 is a return to the romance of travel. The whole experience was very pleasant.