Followers of this blog will recall how I have
written about the Burger craze in London. Everywhere you look a new burger
joint has opened. They are normally stripped down, simple, sometimes with loud
music, and always with their followers claiming that their burgers are really
the best the juiciest and the tastiest. The old school burger joints comprised
of Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Byron, Black & Blue and Hache. The new kids on
the block are Meat Liquor, Tommi’s Burgers and Burger and Lobster. There is
even a new Hot Dog place called Bubbledogs that serves only Hot Dogs and
various types of Sparking Wine. There are also high end burgers available at Bar Boloud, the Cut a Wolfgang Puck restaurant, This is in addition to non specialist
places serving burgers, almost all the pubs, all of the chains – MacDonald’s,
Burger King and so on. Burgers are big in London.
Lunch was at Burger and Lobster. This is an
offshoot of the Goodman Steak Restaurants. It’s Russian owned, and from one outlet
[Goodman] at Maddox Street, in 3 years they now have a total of 6, 3 Goodman
and 3 Burger and Lobster.
The concept is simple. No reservations. You
queue up and get a table. No holding tables for friends, only if all of you are
present will you get a table. There is no menu. They serve just 3 things. A
Burger with cheese and/or bacon, a Lobster Roll and ½ a grilled Lobster with
butter. Everything comes with salad and chips. Each of these costs a flat GBP
20. That is it. Of course there are drinks and deserts. No confusion, no
inventory, no fancy cooking, no utensils and no crockery. Everything is served
on a large metallic tray with a paper mat. No plates, no breakage no fancy
dishwashing. Costs stripped down to the minimum.
The restaurant itself is done up in a warehouse
look with exposed wires, minimalist lights and exposed air-conditioning. Tables
are simple wooden topped tables with no table mats or napkins. Paper napkins
are provided. Food is delivered swiftly, eaten as quickly and you are out in 30
minutes flat.
HRH the Queen of Kutch ordered the Lobster
Roll. The Roll was made with really excellent bread about 9 inches long absolutely
stuffed with large pieces of lobster dressed with Mayonnaise. No bulk adding
tomato, celery etc. just chunks of sweet lobster and a mayonnaise with a
sprinkle of chives. She pronounced it as delicious. I had a bite, it was really
good. The Lobster pieces were large, almost unwieldy, not the rubbish of
chopping up the lobster mixing it into Mayonnaise and spreading it on bread.
This was a large quantity of quality Lobster. She was delighted.
I ordered a Burger. It was delicious. The
burger was bigger and better than the Burgers at any of the usual specialist
burger places. The meat was far tastier and the grind far coarser. Lots of
tasty bacon. I was delighted.
This is in reality an expensive burger. GBP
20 is steep. At Byron you get a Bacon and Cheese Burger for 9.25 to which you
add chips 3.00 and a small salad 3.50 and you pay 15.75. At Black and Blue they
cost 13 and come with the chips and salad. My guess is that the Burgers at
Burger & Lobster subsidise the Lobsters. Despite all this, I think this was
a better burger than what I normally get. If you are willing to pay the price,
you get a better product.
Burger at Black & Blue |
A simple concept well executed. When leaving
I asked the manager how many the restaurant seats? 69 at one time and they turn
tables many times a day. The rush starts at 12 noon at opening. All 69 places
were taken by 12.20. From then till about 3 the restaurant remains packed. Then
at dinner time it starts again. That my friends is a winning formula.
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