Ramen

Readers will know that our lunches are always frugal and light. No lavish meals for lunch. Lunch is needed to keep energy levels up not to pig out on. A favourite lunch for me is a Chinese Noodle Soup. A bowl of clear broth, some fine noodles and a portion of either Crispy Pork Belly or Char Sui Pork as garnish is a thing of joy for me. A sandwich with plain white bread - none of the fancy Panini’s, Rolls or Wraps - is what hits the spot for me. At home if I am out of the house an Idly or a Masala Dosa is what I look for. If getting that is an issue, and I am near a mall, I think that a Burger from MacDonald’s is perfect. It is hygienic, cheap and fast to eat. No French Fries and Cokes, just a burger.

Just before leaving, I saw a show on TV where David Chang the American Korean Chef ate at various Ramen bars in Tokyo. I thought why not slightly shift lunch from China to Japan. After all, Ramen are close cousins of Chinese Noodle soups. The Vietnamese Pho is similar. Why not have Ramen for lunch instead of the Chinese Noodle soup. HRH the Queen happily concurred.

What is a Japanese Ramen soup? The dish has 3 broad components, Noodles, broth and toppings.

The word `Ramen’ actually means noodles. These are made in the usual way with one important change. An alkaline salt, usually Sodium Carbonate or Potassium Carbonate, is added to the water used to knead the noodle dough. This results in a distinctly yellow colour to the noodle. The alkali also has one more effect. The texture of the noodle changes and they get somewhat bouncier, chewier, version of `al dente’. The noodle also holds the liquid much better. The noodles themselves can be thick, thin, ribboned or wrinkled.

The broth is what makes this dish. Broadly, you get four types of broth. The most popular and difficult to make is `Tonkotsu’. This is a pork bone based broth, where the bones as well as other ingredients are boiled for hours and hours. Think Black Daal Punjabi style cooked 4 times longer. The result is that the broth turns milky white, is intensely flavoured, totally Umami and extremely tasty. The second broth is `Shoyu’. This is a clear broth based on chicken bones and coloured with Soy Sauce. It is much lighter, simpler to make and cooks for far less time. `Shio’ is another broth that is even simpler, just a few bones for flavouring with salt as the main taste giver. `Miso’ as the name suggests is a Miso based broth that is often thicker and intensely flavoured.

The last component is the garnishes. Ramen are almost always Pork based, either the broth is or the garnish are. Pork Belly thinly sliced is a favourite garnish. `Nitamago’ or a seasoned soft boiled egg is a must as garnish. Eggs are soft boiled and then marinated in a mix of Soy, Mirin, Ginger and other condiments. The egg is halved any you get a half in your bowl. Other garnish include, `Nori’ – dry seaweed, pickled Mustard Greens, pickled Bamboo, Scallions or Green Onion, Sesame Seeds, Bean Sprouts and a special roast garlic sesame oil that is black in colour. 

On the tables you have a selection of condiments to dress up your soup. The ordinary Soya Sauce, Chilli Oil, Chilli Flakes to the more unusual Garlic Presses with Raw Garlic. Apparently, the Japanese love to crush raw garlic into the Ramen.

Our first Ramen was at Tonkotsu at Dean Street. This was great introduction. We ordered one Tonkatsu style Ramen and one Shoyu style. Both were excellent. Melting Pork Belly, tangy Bamboo and the most delicious Egg. Totally satisfying. The bouncy noodles were a treat. We came away very happy.   

Soy sauce base, pork and chicken stock and medium thick noodles topped with mirin and soy marinated pork belly, half a seasoned soft-boiled egg, menma and spring onions

Rich, sea salt-based pork stock and thin noodles topped with slices of melt-in-the-mouth pork belly, half a seasoned soft-boiled egg, menma, bean sprouts and spring onions

Squid with Salt Pepper

The condiments. Note garlic press and bowl of raw garlic.

Next we went to Wagamama. Several years ago, Wagamama hit London and the UK. The first Wagamama was started by Alan Yau in 1992 in a basement. Alan Yau achieved great fame and fortune as a restaurateur. Along with Wagamama, he owned Hakkasan, Busaba Ethai, Yauatcha and more recently Cha Cha Moon. Over the years he sold his interest in the restaurants and now, generally speaking, these are owned by private equity companies.

Anyway, back to the story.

Wagamama was modelled on the ramen bars of Japan. Large open rooms, community tables, plain wood decor, a limited menu, brightly lit and food quickly prepared and dished out by a team of young waiters. Boy oh boy, it was a rage. I have had many meals there in the past; I had innumerable photos of my face covered drinking from a large bowl of soup. This image became the cover of the book which just had to be published with the recipes of Wagamama. Then, with the passage of time, prices went up, Wagamama became a huge `tourist trap’ and I became more fussy and, dare I say, more knowledgeable about food. I had not been into a Wagamama in years.

We went in were seated and HRH the Queen decided to have a salad. I could not let myself down so I ordered what they called a Pork Ramen. HRH the Queens salad was a warm Salmon Salad with Miso mayonnaise dressing. It had lots of lovely greens – rocket, pea shoots, Wakame [seaweed] and came garnished with Sesame Seeds. Decent, to put it mildly. A dash of Soya Sauce livened it. The pretentious Wagamama offers low sodium Soya Sauce!! My Pork Ramen was a mess. Instead of a lovely seasoned soft boiled egg – the  `Nitamago’, I got a horribly overcooked hardboiled egg complete with green ring around the yolk. To cover up the cock up, they served the egg yolk down. The noodles were not bouncy but seemed to be normal noodles. The garnish of bamboo was acceptable, the broth a weak chicken broth and the pork was a barbequed belly. To be fair, this was as it was described on the menu – well, except the overcooked egg. The whole dish was absolutely pathetic. Nowhere close to the real thing, almost a sham. But, I say again, it was as described on the menu. A waste of time, money and most importantly, calories, which could have been used to eat something worthwhile. Rubbish.

Warm flaked Salmon with Wasabi Rocket, Carrot, Pea Shoots, Spring Onions and Goma Wakame seaweed with a Miso Mayonnaise dressing. garnished with Hijiki and Sesame seeds

Noodles in a Miso, Ginger and Chicken soup topped with barbecued pork, a tea-stained egg, Pea Shoots and Wakame. served with a Korean barbecue sauce and garnished with Menma and Spring Onions - Please note the overturned egg.

How pretentious. No raw garlic but Soya Sauce with less salt !!

Next up was Shoryu Ramen once again in Soho on Denman Street. This place is run by the same guys who run the Japan Centre Canteen out on Regent Street, so one assumes they know what they are doing. Yes, indeed, they know what they were doing. One order was their signature dish, the Shoryu Ganso Tonkotsu, the milky pork broth with some Miso added and the usual garnish. The other order was Tokyo Ramen which had Soy based broth with barbecued pork and a garnish which included a Fish Cake. Both dishes were outstanding. The broths were top quality and the noodles bouncy as promised. This was a good meal. In fact we were so pleased that we went back the next day. I ordered the Yuzu Tonkotsu. Yuzu is a Japanese Cotrus fruit. Chilli we all know. So what they did was make a paste of Green Chilli and Yuzu. This tasted almost exactly like `Mirchi Cha Thecha' which a good Maharashtrian household makes. Also we were tempted by the deep fried Shoft Shell Crab Tempura. 

Shoryu Ganso Tonskatsu

 Tokyo Ramen which had Soy based broth with barbecued pork and a garnish which included a Fish Cake

Yuzu Tonkatsu - The green paste on the left of the egg is a Chilli Yuzu [A Japanese Citrus Fruit much like a Lime]

Soft Shell Crab Tempura

A brilliant Chicken Karrage in a Chinese Bun at Shoryu Ramen

Each seat had a number. So waiters, even a new waiter would not get confused. Sensible touch I thought.

I was indeed disappointed at how ordinary Wagamama really is. But, I presume it is catering to a different market, a less sophisticated palate and generally a tourist. If you want the real thing, do go to one of these Ramen Bars. If not, get a noodle soup at any Chinese restaurant. Wagamama is way off the map.

The Rolling Stones - Hyde Park 13th July 2013.

5th July 1969, two days after the passing of Brian Jones, the Rolling Stones held a free concert at Hyde Park. At this concert Jones’s replacement Mick Taylor was introduced. Before the Rolling Stones' set, Mick Jagger read excerpts from “Adonais” a poem by Percy Shelley about the death of his friend John Keats. Jagger wore a white frock dress when reading the poem. That was the last time the Rolling Stones played a concert at Hyde Park.

Almost every summer, live concerts are held at Hyde Park. Major stars perform, Bruce Springsteen, Elton John, the Red Hot Chilli Peppers released a double CD of their concert at Hyde Park.

The Rolling Stones have been commemorating 50 years of their existence. Word goes that despite the problems and small stages at Glastonbury, the Rolling Stones were persuaded by their children to play at Glastonbury this year. They did, albeit a pared down version of their usual stage show. The Rolling Stones agreed to play a special show at Hyde Park on 6th July 2013, 44 years and one day after their last show. The demand was so overwhelming that the organisers announced one more show on 13th July 2013.

The Barclays British Summertime Festival at Hyde Park had 6 days of live music spread over two weekends. Major groups like, the Rolling Stones, Bon Jovi, Elton John, Chic, Lionel Ritchie, Jennifer Lopez, the Beach Boys, Elvis Costello, Ray Davies, Al Jarreau and Nick Lowe performed. 

The ticket

A large section of Hyde Park on the Park Lane – Marble Arch side was cordoned off for this festival. It was brilliantly organised. On each concert day gates opened by noon and you could go in with a picnic blanket chairs and an umbrella and set up camp. There was a real carnival atmosphere with merry go rounds, Ferris Wheels and other rides for kids. Row upon row of food and drink stalls. All manner of food was available, from Pasta to burgers to Fish and Chips to Barbeque Ribs and Chicken, all manner of sandwiches. All manner of drinks were available, at reasonable prices, a pint of Fosters beer cost GBP 4.50 which is not much more than what you would pay for one at the pub. Wines, Pimm’s and Gin and Tonic were all on offer. In short if you wanted to make a day out in the park, get a sun tan and eat and drink, this was a very attractive proposition.

The walk into the performance area. The gates are under the green arches

And we are in

The carnival atmosphere

The Rolling Stones are one of my favourite bands. We had seen them live when they came to Mumbai a few years ago. Our Friend Philosopher and Guide in London, procured tickets and thus here we were at the height of the English Summer to watch the second show of the Rolling Stones on 13th July 2013 at Hyde Park. 

From our apartment room we could hear sound checks every day. This whet our appetites. On the day we walked across to Hyde Park at about 5 pm and found a spot. The Rolling Stones were to come on at 8.30 pm. We settled down and soon the hot British sun got to us. We needed urgent cooling. We made it to the bar and got a Beer for me and a Cider for HRH the Queen of Kutch. Now let me tell you something here. There were an estimated 80,000 yes eighty thousand people at the concert; of them probably 60,000 were drinking some sort of beer. The beer I got was cold, properly cold; no rubbish of touch the glass. Try getting a properly cold beer at a bar in India.

The bars in the background

We watched and heard various opening acts go thru the motions. Not many in the audience were interested, many were drinking, many just hanging about many just chilling. It was a hot day. As the sun went down the crowd’s mood improved. People were getting genuinely friendly and excited. I was surprised to see the age of the people around me. Well into their late 30 and many in their 60’s and 70’s. Very few under 25’s. A well heeled, well behaved and knowledgeable crowd. The lights dimmed and people got a bit more excited.

Proof that we were there

With friend philosopher and guide. My `bade bhaiya' in London

Suddenly you heard the sound of `pip’ `pip’ `pip’, remember the sound the radio made just before the news, loud over the PA system and a documentary started to roll on the screens. 5 seconds later it was magic. In massive blast of firecrackers and a stunning bright light, the opening chords of Start Me Up hit us. They were on!!!! No announcement no fan fare, just a very bright light, a huge thunder flash and the music started. As I said it was magic, it was stunning and the first 5 seconds were worth the entire ticket price. I tend to get quite emotional at such times. Yes, a few tears did roll down. Makes me sentimental. But that was soon gone, the tears and the sweat all mixed and I was soon singing tunelessly at the top of my voice along with almost everyone around me. Everybody knew the songs everybody knew the words. The Stones could sing a song from the 60’s or the 70’s or the 80’ or the 90’s or even the 2010’s and everyone knew the words. The set list included the classic like Start Me Up, Tumbling Dice, Honky Tonk Women, Miss You and the new hit Doom and Gloom The set closed with the very singable Cant Always Get [What You Want] and Satisfaction. This is the true magic of great bands. Hit makers for the last 50 years.

The prelude

This is not a 1000 word picture. Nothing can describe the start of the show.

Mid way thru the show, in a throwback to 1969, Mick Jagger put on a white dress, made some jokes about it fitting despite all this time and launched into a song. Soon Mick Taylor was brought on to play both Midnight Rambler and the encore which had to be Satisfaction. That was touching. At the final bow Mick Taylor joined the remaining 4 Stones. Then, he withdrew and the 4 took the very final bow. Grace and dignity. That is what it was.

The show ended with the crowd being sprayed with paper Red Poppies. Was this a statement of sorts? I do not know. I caught 3 of them.

The show was superb. The energy and the calibre of musicians on stage is superhuman. These chaps are all 65 years old. All of them have led lives which would render a mortal like you and me `Hors de Combat’. Leave that aside, each one of the Rolling Stones weighs less than me, has not an ounce of fat on their bodies and is fit as a horse. But all that is another matter. They are extraordinary human specimens.

One particularly charming moment for me was the `Case of the Little Girl In The Red Dress’. There was this child, barely 4 carried on her dads shoulders. She was just so happy watching the show, clapping, dancing and thoroughly enjoying herself. That was just so charming and endearing. 

The audience was in such fine form, in good singing voice and in excellent humour. The `woo hooo’ chorus of Miss You became the sort of catch praise, if I could use that term, for the rest of the evening. People sang it in unison and that brought a smile to everyone’s face. I know that as I write, many of you will not know what I am talking about. Do not worry; this is no reflection on you. I was just so happy at the end of the show that I am probably not making much sense. Forgive me.

This was really a top experience. Something I will remember all my life.

I saw the Rolling Stones live in Hyde Park one very hot summers evening. I will probably forget the date and the year, but the night will be burned in my mind for ever.

Amen!

Kuala Lumpur - My views

I guess you know the story. You plan a vacation to some distant foreign land. You take a flight, get into a taxi or if you can afford it, the hotel or airline send you a limousine and you are whisked to your hotel. You eat at a few fancy restaurants, visit the obligatory tourist spots, visit a few shops and move on to your next destination.

However, there is one major transformation in us. When we travel, we become overnight experts on the destination we have just visited. We have our favourite tips, insiders secrets and recommendations which we are more than willing to spout to all in earshot. All this is based on a superficial visit which is sometimes as short as two days and sometimes as `long’ as a week. I join that band of travellers. This is my, un-informed, biased and prejudiced view based on a stay in a hotel in Kuala Lumpur. I have no knowledge of real life in KL, it’s hardships, it’s joys and it’s problems.

South East Asia has 4 big cities. Jakarta does not count, in my view. Hong Kong by far is my favourite and the most vibrant and exciting. Next up would be Singapore. Bangkok is great fun too. Last of the cities is Kuala Lumpur. All these cities are within easy reach of India with at least one national airline flying from India to each city.

Kuala Lumpur is a 5 hour, gave or take a few minutes, flight from Mumbai. Kuala Lumpur airport is a long way away from the city centre some 50 kms away, but that distance is easily covered by way of a super smooth highway that leads straight into the city centre. It does take about an hour but that is par for the course in almost any city. Landing into Kuala Lumpur is one of the prettier sights. Mile upon mile of dense green Palm tree plantations.

Kuala Lumpur has an area called the Golden Triangle. As far as visitors go, this is the place to be, this is the sanctum sanctorum of sorts of Kuala Lumpur. This is where most big hotels are, where the shopping malls are and where the, sorry to use a cliché, iconic Petronas Towers are. This is the place to stay. The Golden Triangle includes the area known as KLCC and Bukit Bintang. What does one do in Kuala Lumpur? Answer, frankly, shopping, shopping and more shopping. There does not appear to be much else to do, well you could go to Chinatown and buy a fake Rolex watch or Louis Vuitton bag. The thing to do is spend your time walking and window shopping in the malls. The two biggest and best malls are the Pavilion in Bukit Bintang with the smaller Starhill Gallery next door and the Suria Mall at KLCC. The KLCC is the Convention Centre area around the Petronas Towers. As far as Malls go, these are quite good. Do not ask me if the prices are high or low.

The Petronas Towers in the afternoon. The squat buildings in the foreground are the Suria KLCC Mall

The Petronas Towers in at twilight. 

The Petronas Towers at night. 

The fountains in the KLCC complex

The clever government in Kuala Lumpur has made life even more fun and convenient for shoppers. A brand new elevated walkway now connects the Suria KLCC Mall with the Pavilion Mall. You can walk from one mall to the other without fear, in delightfully cool airconditioned comfort. The distance of about 600 meters is covered swiftly. This is what a walkway shoud be. No hawkers, no beggars, no Paan stains, no Pan Parag wrappers, just cleanliness. It was a pleasure walking this, even Senior Mrs Stonethrower was pleased with this.

The elevated air conditioned walkway

Inside the walk way

Thought this was funny. `Lintas' means walk in Malay.

One feature of the Malls in South East Asia is that most of the big ones have some really decent restaurants inside. OK, let me make one thing clear. I do not want to eat French food in South East Asia. Neither do I want to eat modern, fusion Pan Asian food. So I am quite happy going to the classic restaurants serving Asian food. An example being Din Tai Fung which is located inside the Pavilion Mall.

I often find myself comparing Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur. Both have top hotels, though Bangkok is cheaper than Kuala Lumpur as far as hotels are concerned. Both have fine local food, spicy to keep our Indian tongues jumping and the food has strong Indian overtones. Both places are good for the shopper. Kuala Lumpur is, by comparison much smaller than Bangkok. Kuala Lumpur has a definite sanctum sanctorum while Bangkok has points of interest virtually all over. Bangkok has far more tourist sites with temples and Buddhas of all kinds all over. Kuala Lumpur is much more modern with swanky buildings and far more westernised in infrastructure. The horrible traffic gridlock that plagues Bangkok is not a factor in Kuala Lumpur (or, at least we didn’t encounter it).

In balance, I do like Kuala Lumpur even though it is small. It is, in my prejudiced view, less interesting than the other three cities, but, it’s way more bang for your buck than anything in India.