Wednesday, July 11, 2018

The Bohras, FGM & Singhvi







Dawoodi Bohras are a Shia sect who settled down in India primarily in Gujarat. Significant numbers of Bohras live in Yemen, Pakistan and East Africa. Large numbers also live in Europe, USA & Sri Lanka. The community itself is small numbering 10 lakhs [1 million] or thereabouts. One feature of the community is that they have a leader. He is the 'Da`I al-Mutlaq' or 'Syedna', the sovereign leader of the Dawoodi Bohras and guardian of the Fatemi 'D`awah' (religious mission). He is the religious leader, temporal guide and both spiritual father and mother to the community

I am reasonably familiar with Bohras. By some curious twist not only have I had Bohras friends from school since 1970, but, over the years almost all my advisors have been Bohras. Two of my 1st standard friends, my architect, my accountant, my financial guide, my jeweler, the guy who maintains my web domain; are all Bohras. . !

As is the case everywhere, my Bohra friend come in all shades of orthodoxy or conservativism or tradition. Some are “full on” with prayers many times a day, beards and caps and strictly maintain dietary restrictions. They attend many community religious gatherings and, of course, fast thru Ramzan. Others are more relaxed and pick and choose from the large plate of Bohra orthodoxy at will. Still others are “emancipated” almost totally, enjoying a sausage, glass of white wine and an after-dinner cigarette. “Emancipation” too has facets with some abjuring pork or not smoking and otherwise being totally unreligious and without wearing a beard or cap.

By and large the Bohras have been a peace-loving community and have been widely accepted in the mainstream. There was a period during the 1970’s and early 1980’s when a reformist movement was started. From what I understand this movement protested new diktats that said all properties owned by Bohras (including mosques) belonged to the Syedna. However, this movement lost steam and a fragile equilibrium was once again in place.

Over the years, especially with the rise of fundamentalism, and, following the death of the previous Syedna with the new Syedna taking over, the Bohras have become somewhat more aggressive, and there has been a rise in fundamentalism. At least, their version of fundamentalism.

I am aware that I have used the word “Fundamentalism”. Many would like to use the word “Orthodox”. I tried to find what each meant and came across this rather good explanation. It says that “Fundamentalism is orthodoxy gone cultic.”

The following passage, in my mind, beautifully bring out the difference. It is used in context of Christianity, but, the principles are absolutely rock solid. My Bohra readers will understand this in a flash. Concepts of social ostracization are as old as the hills and have been used consistently:

“Fundamentalism is (among other things): adding secondary and even tertiary beliefs to basic Christian orthodoxy as NECESSARY for authentic Christian identity (e.g., premillennialism, biblical inerrancy, young earth creationism), insisting that salvation depends on belief in a long list of doctrines including ones NOT PART OF basic Christian orthodoxy, and refusing Christian fellowship with other Christians who are “doctrinally polluted” or “doctrinally impure” because they do not believe everything on the fundamentalists’ long list of essential doctrines.”

In recent years,there has been a fair deal of disquiet in the Bohra community over the practice of Female Genital Mutilation [FGM]. Suddenly you had reports that this was being done. Reports of doctors in the USA being arrested as they had performed FGM on young girls in USA. Similar reports from Australia. Further reports referring to an organization calling itself the Dawoodi Bohra Women’s Association for Religious Freedom [DBWRF] where the DBWRF claimed that FGM was an old and recognized Bohra practice and stopping it would impinge on their religious freedom. Here is a link to the DBWRF website.

Over 9th to 11th July 2018, there has been a lot of reportage in the press relating to the practice of Female Genital Mutilation [FGM]. A Public Interest Petition was filed by Sunita Tiwari in the Supreme Court seeking directions that FGM should be declared unlawful and should not be permitted. The Petition is aimed squarely at the Bohras. If you like, you could read the Petition here. Reading it made my skin crawl.

Reading reports of what transpired during the hearing of the Petition made me sick and angry.

First, what amazes me is the stand of the DBWRF. This organization consists of women who insist that FGM should be performed on women! This really beats me hollow. As a woman should you not be outraged by FGM. To inflict it on a child, and to insist that you have the right to so inflict it, is frankly, beyond the pale for me. Not that I would in any way agree nor would my stand change, but if it were a male dominated organization demanding FGM because in their twisted logic it may keep their wives in check, I would have thought that it is somewhat in tune with today’s fundamentalist times. But a women’s organization demanding the right to perform FGM. Sigh!

Second, what in retrospect does not come as a surprise to me, is the fact that Abhishek Manu Singhvi appeared for the DBWRF in the Supreme Court asking for the DBWRF to be added to the Petition so that the stand of the DBWRF could be made clear. For those who do not know, Abhishek Manu Singhvi is a Senior Counsel and a senior member of the Congress Party. Thus, in effect, the Congress supports what the DBWRF stand for. I know that every liberal will be up in arms reading my conclusion regarding the Congress stand. However, in this case, they will find it difficult to justify how the Congress could support this. Actually, if you do read the papers, or follow social media [the home of every liberal who is permanently outraged] you will find little or no reaction to this. They have gone silent. The "middia", by which I mean TV with its daily screaming matches of Nikah Halala, Triple Talaq and Sharia Law have nothing to say on this matter. 

The Congress stand, is, as I written earlier, not surprising. It is almost certain that the Congress will run to defend every attempt at impinging rights of the Muslims. Frankly, there is nothing wrong in this approach, but doing it unthinkingly or as a simple knee jerk reaction is what is sad. I cannot believe that outlawing FGM would do any harm, while if the practice is allowed to continue, it can only be a gross wrong. There are several instances when the Muslims have been truly oppressed, and many more will occur in future. The Congress should join those Petitions. Why this one?

It is possible, thought very sad if true, that the Congress has decided to join this Petition on behalf of the DBWRF [basically an organ of the Syedna] to curry favour with the Bohras. You may recall that in the early days of PM Narendra Modi’s foreign travels, especially in the UK & USA the Bohras were distinctly seen in their caps and beards, forming a significant part of the audience. Joining this litigation may be a cut your nose to spite your face attempt by the Congress to curry favour with the Bohras.

I am also surprised at the line of arguments taken by the DBWRF and consequently their counsel Singhvi. This may be a bit technical but stay with me for a moment. The prayer in the Petition is as under

Directing the respondents [That is the Union of India among others] to place a complete ban on the illegal and inhuman practice of Female Genital Mutilation or Khatna, as the same being violative of the fundamental rights including Articles 14 & 21 and Article 39 (directive principles of state policy) of the Constitution of India.

The DBWRF has instructed Singhvi to argue among other things, and I quote from the DBWRF website; that:

“Khafz/Female Circumcision as practised by the Dawoodi Bohra community is not Female Genital Mutilation and is completely different from Female Genital Mutilation, which is condemned by the Dawoodi Bohra community;

Now, if the submission of the DBWRF extracted above is to be taken at face value, what possible objection could the DBWRF have if the Supreme Court grants the prayers and declares FGM illegal. The DBWRF contends that what they do is not FGM.

This case is yet to conclude.

I sincerely hope that the Petition is allowed and made absolute as we lawyers say, and, FGM is consigned to the garbage bin.






Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Avaratna - ITC Grand Chola Chennai. Outstanding.



On Saturday 16th June 2018, we had, what we collectively thought, the best Indian food in India as well as the best meal [all cuisines] in India.

The restaurant – Avaratna at the ITC Grand Chola Chennai.




Having got that out of the way let me proceed.

The restaurant is open only for dinner. This is a handsome restaurant, bright and open. The lights you see hanging in strands represent Banana flowers. On the wall you have a design feature to represent a wave crashing down on the beach. There were also Banana Leaf outlines woven into the carpet, but I did not take a photograph.





Avaratna is 14 months old. The restaurant has only 4 tasting menus, of 7, 9, 11 and 13 courses, in both a vegetarian option as well as a non-vegetarian option. There is no a la carte. The prices start at INR 2000 all the way up to INR 4500, all, obviously excluding taxes. We opted for two 9 course [Bela] and one 11 course [Jiaa] menus.   





A few lines about the food. First, do not in any way be frightened at seeing a 13-course menu. The quantity of food is not gargantuan. Each course is between 1 ½ to 2 bites, not more, so at the end you will be full but not bursting. There were 3 of us dining, Senior Mrs. Stonethrower, HRH the Queen of Kutch and myself. Different menus were chosen. Each of us wanted a swap of a dish from our chosen menu to one from another menu. The request was handled without a blink of the eye. The food is NOT fusion but is in fact Modern South Indian. Let me explain. Naan with Blue Cheese is Fusion. The new ways of serving Paani Poori is Modern. Fusion food is where ingredients that don’t belong to a cuisine are paired, as I wrote, Blue Cheese and a Naan. Modern could be used to describe a newer way to serve or present traditional food. Avaratna serves Modern South Indian food. 

Chef Ajit Bangera who headed the team that developed the menu said in an interview “that he does not want to tart up or reinvent great South Indian classics. Instead, he wants to take South Indian flavours and masalas and pair them with a few staples (appams, dosas, uttapams, rasams etc.) to create a cuisine that is recognisably South Indian in the mouth, but is not gimmicky or show-offy”. He has also said that they have “moved away from traditional thalis, everything is plated in international standards. Presentation is an important part of the experience and once you dig into your dish, you will realise that it is undeniably South Indian”. Chef Bangera and team has certainly achieved this.

The food was served, as I have written earlier, in small portions of a couple of bites each. The presentation was modern and Western, no bowls of brown curry with Kothmir garnish or onion rings. All the food served to us [except the Lamb Congee & Aubergine Yogurt] came in custom designed plates, designed to show off the food. The Lamb Congee & Aubergine Yogurt seemed like an afterthought served in a clunky Ramekin with an Oriental soup spoon containing the Yogurt. 


Above: Lamb Conjee Aubergine Yogurt 

You did get the obligatory foam in a nod to Molecular Gastronomy. You also got a sorbet, which, like every sorbet we have eaten in India is simply too sweet. You also got several amuse bouche. Thus, all the boxes that have to be ticked by international restaurants were ticked here too.



Above: Cucumber & Ginger Sorbet



Above: Orange & Ginger Sorbet

A few of the dishes were truly staggering in their conceptualizing. You must have heard the cliché that all South Indian food consists of is Rice with Sambaar, Rice with Rassam and Rice with Curds. As is the case with clichés, this is not wrong nor is it particularly accurate. Keeping this cliché in mind, along with what Chef Bangera says about a cuisine that is recogniseably South Indian, you had the brilliant Rassam. Now Rassam is served much like a soup in traditional Chinese food, to be sipped along the course of the meal. Here the Rassam was really intelligently tarted up. A jug of crystal clear flavourful Rassam was poured into a French Press containing fresh Coriander and halved baby Tomato. The flavours infused and you were served the herbed Rassam in a Martini glass. Top class.





Continuing the cliché, a South Indian meal ends with a serving of Dahi Rice, pickle and a Papad or Applam. This is exactly what was done here. A beaker of not rice but Sago balls, Tapioca or Sabudana [all are the same] in cold Dahi, served with a Test Tube of tangy chutney, a fried Apalam and a classic fried Dahi Chilly. This dish was to my mind the defining Modern South Indian dish of the evening.


Above: Sago Yogurt, Tamarind & Dried Berry Sauce, Apalam & Chili


The third dish that blew my mind was Slow Roast Belly Port, Coorg Vinegar Masala, Barley and Ghee Candle. A photograph is just below. This was nothing but the traditional Coorgi Pandi Curry made with the Kachampulli Vinegar. The bit that got me was the Ghee candle. They really made a candle of Ghee, lit so that the Ghee melted into the dry powder Mulgapodi. Normally, hot ghee is spooned onto the Mulgapodi.. I was gob smacked.



A course that was pronounced a winner by both Senior Mrs Stonethrower as well as HRH The Queen was the Lamb Brain Fritter. A photograph is just below. It was absolutely melt in the mouth and wonderfully light. Almost Foie Gras in texture. It was served with a thin and crisp shard of Rava Dosa. Absolutely brilliant.



The mini Idlis served with the lamb chops were a work of a master. We all agreed that these were the best Idlis we had ever eaten, soft, light and amazingly smooth textured.




Also, the fish was accurately cooked across all courses. Be it the Sea Bass or the Cod with Coriander Broth. The Scallops too were perfectly cooked (which is not the norm in India)

Yes, there were duds too. The sorbets were rubbish. Another amuse bouche of Paniyaram with a Garlic Chili Chutney was foul, it was left unfinished by all of us. Too much raw garlic and chili in the chutney. A photograph is just below. The Pork Dumpling simply did not work. This photograph is much lower down.



The rest of the food I am not describing. Here are the photos for you to drool over.


Above: Amuse Bouche - Marina Beach. Fried Apalam with Mango, Orange and Chili Powder 


Above: Poached Red Prawn. Pickled Onion & Tempered Cream Cheese




Above: Fish In Chips [Not "and" but "in"] Coriander Emulsion. Much Like Patra Ni Macchi


Above: Pepper Chicken with Spiced Meringue. The Meringue is the white bit with Fennel.


Above: Pork Dumpling, Jaggery & Pepper Chutney, Sesame Gunpowder


Above: Asparagus & Coconut Stew, Fried Channa Daal, Mini Appam 





Above: Amuse Bouche. Dehydrated Fried Karela, Potato & Beetroot Yogurt Cream



Above: Chilli Scallop, Peppercorns and Mango Ginger Sauce


Above: Pan Fried Cod, Coriander Broth & Rice Pancake


Above: Steamed Sea Bass, Tangy Cumin Sauce Crisp Okra & Sesame Rice


Coconut Masala Lamb Chops, Coriander Seed & Shallot Chutney, Mini Idlis. Photo of Mini Idlis higher up



Duck Roast Charred Onions and Mini Malabar Parotta


Above: The Mini Malabar Parotta


Above: Asparagus, Coconut Turmeric Cream & Idiyappam or String Hoppers


Above:Fennel Panna Cotta & Angel Hair Caramel [spun sugar]





Above: Trio of Payasam - Tender Coconut, Jasmine & Banana 


Above: Carrot Ice Cream, Black Rice Pudding, Green Gram Dumpling AKA Modak


Above: A modern Paan. The filling was frozen Gulkhand Coconut et al


The service was excellent, prompt, knowledgeable and cheerful. The food came out quickly and together for all 3 of us on the table. Without exception each plate had food that was hot [as in Garam] and perfectly seasoned. This is very difficult to achieve. Full marks to the coordination between the front and back of house.

To conclude, please do make a visit to this restaurant. Excellent and without doubt the best food in India today. Do go. And no, it is not expensive.

Unhesitatingly recommended.




Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Part II - The decline and fall of the IIT's







This is the continuation of the previous post.

The theory in the previous post was that the education system is in a flux, and there is a constant desire to upgrade and upscale – SSC schools want to upgrade to CBSE or ICSE, ICSE schools want to upgrade to IB and GCSE. As far as SSC schools are concerned, this process has only just started while with ICSE schools this has been going on for quite a few years. In addition, there are several new schools that have been set up that offer IB/GCSE from the beginning. The Ambani School was set up in 2003, followed by Ecole Mondiale and then B D Somani. Today in Mumbai there are a few dozen IB schools and, in India, probably hundreds.

For the rich, getting admission for their children into school is easy, far easier than the time before these new schools were set up. Generally speaking, the academic standards of these IB/GCSE schools is superior to ICSE/CBSE and hugely superior to the SSC schools. The academics are such in IB/GCSE schools that students who graduate are prepped and prepared to immediately shift to colleges in the USA, Canada and the UK. Do keep in mind that parents of students of IB/GCSE schools are themselves generally well educated, often from abroad, and are reasonably wealthy. This means that the parents have on the one hand no qualms, and, on the other hand, the desire and ability to send the kids abroad post IB/GCSE graduation.

Now let us step back in time.

In the good old days, you did what was a classic education. School from Campion or Cathedral in Mumbai, or Doon, or any of the top-notch schools in India. Then you went to a top-notch college, say St Stephens or St Xaviers. If you were technically inclined, you went to an IIT. Except for the really very rich, not many went abroad. If they did, it was almost always for a post graduate education – an MS, or an MBA or similar. Going abroad for an under graduation was unheard of. Look at the resume of high level business executives aged 50+ and you will observe this.

Since going abroad was such a big deal in the good old days, it meant that our IIT’s and IIM’s were guaranteed to have a huge demand. Getting into one of these required serious brain power. You had to be really and I mean really bright. The number of IIT’s was few, first IIT was set up in Kharagpur in 1951, then in Bombay (1958), Madras (1959), Kanpur (1959) and Delhi (1963). The next IIT was set up 31 years later in 1994 in Guwahati. Today there are 23 IIT’s. As far as IIM’s are concerned the first was set up in 1961 with a very slow addition. Today there are 20 IIM’s.
  
Admission to the IIT is determined by several factors, including primarily, the marks you score in the Joint Entrance Exam [JEE]. The number of seats available is finite. So, obviously you would have to score well in the JEE to ensure that you get into the IIT of your choice in a course of your choice.

There was, however, trouble brewing on the horizon for the last ten odd years. This year, the bomb has exploded.

With the availability of internationally compatible education in schools and the desire and ability to send the students abroad, parents were simply bypassing the IITs and IIM,s. Students who were well prepped had the education and money to secure admission in universities abroad. They, obviously did, as however you look at it a college education from abroad is better than one here in India. So, you had a perfect storm. You had far fewer students who wanted to go to an IIT, coupled with the fact that the number of IIT’s has increased. This year, the admission board suddenly found that after tabulating the results of the JEE, they had not enough students to fill the seats in the IIT’s. Incredible.!

Now here is what the admission board did. They simply lowered the cut off marks thereby ensuring that about 10,000 to 15,000 students became eligible to apply for an IIT. They simply had to fill the seats.

If you like you could read the newspaper reports here:

https://www.livemint.com/Education/pR3d9qYggYNFM9SSb3xrhK/IITs-told-to-lower-cutoff-marks.html

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/lower-cutoff-now-allows-32000-to-qualify-for-iits/articleshow/64594196.cms

Now here is the problem. The IIT courses are pretty academically challenging. If to put bums on seats you have increased your student body by lowering the admission qualification, you will have classes full of relatively not so smart students. What happens next? They fail, they drop out, they commit suicide, and, worst of all, they may have to be simply pushed to the next year to ensure that they do not repeat the year. How does this end? Simply by having masses of Dumbo’s, promoted year after year entering the workstream thoroughly unqualified. I shudder!

The admissions board has sought to justify the lowering of the admission mark by explaining that this year the JEE was unusually difficult, hence, students got lower marks! Really?

Mind you, this is the first time this has happened. The lowering of admission standards can only be deleterious for India. As it is we have lakhs of students who are educated but unemployable unless trained by the employer. With this lowering of standards, the consequences are truly scary.

The fact that a larger number of good students are going abroad has been known for some time. The graph has been rising every year. What has our government done? Nothing! Increased the seats offered when the takers are reducing. The consequence today? Lower the standards.

Did I not tell you, leave it to the Government to fuck it up?