Bellamy's - London

The area around Berkley Square in Mayfair London has several quality restaurants. The newly opened Sexy Fish with its Pan Asian, carbohydrate lite food for the swish set and the ladies who lunch, Benaras for the rich homesick Indians who have offices and homes in Mayfair and Novikov for the Russians are just a few examples. Two out of the Holy Triumvirate of restaurants that every Desi visits, – Nobu and Hakkasan – are also at Berkley square while the third, Royal China, is not.

In a quiet lane off Berkley Square are three excellent restaurants. The extraordinary Steak & Pie place Guinea Grill, the 2 stars in Michelin Kaiseki restaurant – Umu; and the utterly delightful Bellamy’s. Bellamy’s was where we were to dine.

A bit of history. For what it’s worth, the Tattler magazine in 2014 designated Bellamy’s as being “The Most Civilised Restaurant”. Now is that not charming and something you would want in restaurant? And there is more. Some 10 years ago, to celebrate the 80^th birthday of her closest friend Lady Prudence Penn, Queen Elizabeth attended a private dinner at Bellamy’s. What is all the more enchanting is that in May 2016, to celebrate Lady Penn’s 90^th birthday, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth, Princess Anne and others from the Royal family had a private dinner at Bellamy’s. This is unusual as the Queen does not dine in restaurants.  

The restaurant itself is helmed by alumni from Annabel’s – the legendary London nightclub. The food is partly French, partly English with a strong emphasis on fish. The menu has several old style, old fashioned dishes and in the bar at lunch you can order sandwiches. In addition there is a very good fixed meal changing every week at a very economical £ 21.50 for two courses.

As we walked in we saw an older lot of patrons, all decently dressed with men wearing jackets. Of course there were only whites in the restaurant, and, of course, we were the only browns, no blacks and no yellows, no Hispanics, no ragheads. A glass of Rose Champagne for HRH the Queen of Kutch and a Gin & Tonic for me while we scanned the menu.

The menu was an absolute delight. So many wonderful dishes – Artichoke Salad, Avocado Vinaigrette, Brown Shrimp Croquettes, Prawn & Avocado Cocktail and so much more. This was just starters. We chose three – the Fish Fingers, Smoked Eel Mousse and Sashimi of Yellow fin Tuna. The more cynical of you may question ordering Sashimi in an Anglo French restaurant. Not to worry folks, remember Sashimi involves no cooking – simply sourcing and slicing fish and serving it with store bought Wasabi and Soy. The Sashimi was pronounced as amazing by HRH the Queen of Kutch. I ate a piece too – brilliant. The Smoked Eel Mousse was top class. Smooth creamy & smoky served with thin Melba Toast points. Just what I wanted. The Fish Fingers were very good too. As the cliché goes, well begun is half done.

Smoked Eel Mousse

Fish Fingers

Sashimi of Yellow Fin Tuna

Choosing the main course was a difficult task. So much to choose from. To me a test of a good restaurant is where you have a short menu and find that you have so much that leaps out at you. This was an instance of that phenomenon. Dover Sole with steamed Potato, Scallops with Vegetables, Lamb Noisettes, Steak Tartare and so much more. Finally HRH the Queen settled on Roast Cod with a Black Olive Crust while I ordered a Salt Beef Pot au Feu. Both dishes were knockouts. Extremely tasty, light with no heavy saucing, no spices just deep flavours. Excellent food. Plates cleaned.

Roast Cod with Black Olive

Salt Beef Pot au Feu

A side of Green Beans

Desserts were old fashioned too – we had a Tunisian Orange and Almond cake, moist and not overly sweet with a lot of Orange flavour, and a Salted Caramel Ice Cream. This was washed down with a Brandy for HRH the Queen and a Calvados for me.

This was a very good meal. No fireworks and no fancy service, just simple straight forward old style cooking. This would be a neighbourhood restaurant where you could eat once a week and always have a good meal. Friendly wait staff, thoroughly competent. This is a place we will happily return several times.

Another wonderful evening.    

Long live Red Tape

A few days ago, an Indian Visiting London [IVL] went to Marks & Spencer [M&S] as all Indians do and bought herself a top. Only problem was that she was size 10 and bought a size 18 top. Needless to say, the top did not fit. This was discovered after IVL had returned to Mumbai.

HRH the Queen of Kutch to the rescue – she was going to London. The size 18 top was handed over to HRH the Queen of Kutch with instructions to go to M&S and (i) exchange the top for a size 10 and (ii) to buy one more size 10 top of the same design in a different colour. So, we trooped off to M&S and found a size 10 top. Task (i) was completed. We went to the exchange and refund department, handed over the size 18 top, exchanged it for the size 10 top, obtained a receipt and went back to the shop floor to complete task (ii).

There were tops of the desired different colour but, unfortunately, none of them were size 10. So the helpful staff said that the best way to obtain the top was to order it online using the in store computer terminal. The top could be collected free of cost from the store the next day. So HRH the Queen of Kutch took a top and scanned the label on the small infrared scanner next to the computer. Up popped the tops on screen. Colour was chosen, size was selected, payment made by credit card and job done. The top would be available for collection in store the next day. A confirmation of the order was sent by email to HRH the Queen of Kutch, and, with a smartphone, the confirmation number was available on the mobile.

What happened next was an eye opener.

We turned up at the collections desk and HRH the Queen of Kutch was asked for her name – she told the clerk her name. The clerk turned on his heel, went to the inside and reappeared a few moments later with a package. The package had the top. That was it. Finished! I have nothing more to say.

We were literally gobsmacked. Can you imagine this in India? You would have had 3 layers of imbeciles to deal with. Each one more suspicious of your motives. You would have been asked for ID proof, PAN Card, AADHAR, birth certificate duly notarised and fuck knows what else. Then you would have had to fill in a form and sign in at least two ledgers and probably obtain a `Gate pass’ to exit the shop without a bill.

Why oh why are we so bloody anal in India?

Valencia - The Food

When you think of the most iconic Spanish food, the first two things that come to your mind are probably Tapas and Paella. Truth be told, non-Spaniards view Paella as Spain's national dish, but most Spaniards consider it to be a regional Valencian dish. Valencians, in turn, regard Paella as one of their identifying symbols. We knew that once we were in Valencia all we would eat was Paella.

What is Paella? Like a Tagine, Paella is the cooking utensil that is used to make the dish. Over time the name of the cooking utensil and the resultant dish are now used interchangeably. In fact, I believe that in Valencia they refer to all cooking vessels as paella – a pan – whether or not the pan is used to make the Paella. Around the world, a Paella pan is referred to as “Paelleras.”  

The dish Paella generally has rice as its main ingredient. The rice is cooked with combinations of several other ingredients, typically saffron, rabbit, green beans, snails and Artichoke. There are several variations, with pork, chicken, seafood and chorizo. You also get a Black Paella which is made with Squid Ink. Paellas can be dry, much like our Biryanis, or creamy like a Risotto or even soupy. While rice is the base in most cases, there is Paella made with noodle or Vermicelli which is called a Fideua.

We were going to be in Valencia for three nights which meant three Paella’s. This was going to be fun. We spent hours trying to find out good specialist Paella places. We had some sort of short list. We also asked the Concierge at the Hotel who threw up different names. Thank god for “free internet” in the hotel. More, research and discussions. I mean, we were in a city that was the home to Paella. We HAD to get the best possible versions.

The first night we had bookings at a very nice place called the Raco Del Turia – Turia being the river that flows thru Valencia. The restaurant was bright with white table cloths and minimal staff. To start we had to sample the local cocktail – Aqua Di Valencia. This is a version of Bucks Fizz and a Screwdriver. The drink comprises of Orange Juice, Cava and Gin. Pleasant, good for just one drink.

Aqua Di Valencia 

Wafers. They are all over Spain 

For starters we had to have a classic, once again, Gambas Al Ajillo – Prawn with Olive oil Garlic and some Paprika. Excellent. With this we ordered Sardine with Tomato and Caper Cream on a Hazelnut base. Even better, though, badly photographed.

Gambas Al Ajillo

Sardine with Tomato and Caper Cream on a Hazelnut base 

The main course had to be the classic Paella Valencia. This looks large but in fact the rice layer is pretty thin. The Paella was really very good and was thoroughly enjoyable. Desserts were nice too, a home-made ice cream and a Spanish version of a Cheese Cake. Good service, good food, excellent atmosphere and vibe. This was a good evening and excellent meal.

The next night we were to dine at Gran Azul. This place was known for its Fideua. This served food in a more modern style. The restaurant was across the River and a short walk from our Hotel. Large, swish looking interiors. Valencian Tomato is locally grown. We had seen them being sold in the Market. SO for our starter we ordered a Valencian Tomato with Tuna Belly. A beautiful looking dish, and, was a perfect starter – cold, light and the acidic dressing was perfect. With this we just had to have a Ham Croquette which was unusual as the inside was more Mousse like rather than the more solid and dense insides that we had been served in other places. The Spanish eat eggs with their meals. This one dish looked so tempting that we just had to have it – a simple fried egg with good Spanish Ham.  

The Fideua turned up. This was the Noodle Paella with Prawn and Langoustines. Extremely tasty but unfortunately not my favourite dish. The Noodles – as an ingredient - were disappointing. This did not work for me, or HRH the Queen. But, as they say, live and learn. Not going to order this again.

Noodle Paella with Prawn and Langoustines 

The last night was another highly recommended restaurant, La Riua. This was a far more downmarket place, located in a nondescript building in the centre of town. We had an 8.30 pm table and when we turned up at 8.35 they were still setting up! Soon we were seated and ready to go. This was our last night in Spain, so, once more with feeling – Croquettas. Along with this was an order of Peppers stuffed with Eel and the whole dish baked with a White Sauce. Lovely dish.

Starters disposed of we waited for our Black Paella made with Squid Ink. This turned up and was proudly displayed and portioned. Let me tell you, it is a bit disconcerting to eat Black food. Your lips get a tinge of black and your dining companion starts to look like out of a macabre horror movie with a black mouth! But this was good Paella and something you should have.

In balance, the traditional Valencian Paella was outstanding, the Black Squid Ink Paella came second, while the Fideua was a disappointment.

All in all, a fun time in Valencia with some good food.