Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Food in Milan



Dinners in Milan are more elaborate than just a simple Pizza or Panini. 

By the way, Milan is the home of quite a few dishes which we regard as classic Italian. The Minestrone soup is Milanese, as is the Milanese cutlet which is a flattened, crumb fried veal cutlet. Risotto Milanese is obviously local. The delicious Osso Bucco with Gremolata is local too. Pasta and fish are big too. Here is a sample of what we ate.

Drool.

Anti Pasti at Bistrot Savini

Milanese at Bistrot Savini

Osso Bucco at Bistrot Savini
Beef Carpaccio at Osteria Stendhal
Risotto Milanese at Osteria Stendhal

Minestrone Soup at Osteria Stendhal

Eggplant Parmesan at Osteria Stendhal

Parma Ham and Melon at Osteria Stendhal

Grilled Tuna at Osteria Stendhal
Pasta with fresh white Truffle at Osteria Cavallini

Risotto with fresh white truffle at Osteria Cavallini


Beef Cheek with Jus and Mashed Potato at Osteria Cavallini

A chocolate fondant at Osteria Cavallini


Tiramisu at Osteria Cavallini
Taggiatelli with Fresh Mushroom at Restaurant Toranini 25

Spaghetti with Scampi and Zucchini Flowers at Restaurant Toranini 25

Frito Misto at Restaurant Toranini 25

Sea Bream with a Potato crust at Restaurant Toranini 25

The best Veal Milanese at Restaurant Toranini 25
 
A bowl with grated Parmesan


Milan


Milan, the Northern Italian powerhouse of commerce, fashion and money. We had decided to spend a few nights here when taking in the Formula 1 race in Monza. Milan is well connected with 3 airports in close proximity. Bergamo has an airport used by the deceitful low cost carriers which schedule a flight for Milan but you land in Bergamo. The old airport, Linate, is closest to Milan, a bare 8 Kms from the city. The newer Malpensa is some 45 kms away. So watch out when flying in or out. It’s better to pay a bit more for your air ticket and land in Linate rather than being out in the boondocks with Bergamo or Malpensa.

As a city, Milan is a charmless place. It has two buildings, one an absolute stunner and the other less so. The stunner is the magnificent Duomo, the main Cathedral. This is a sight to behold and will leave you literally gaping open mouthed. Yes, yes, like the Taj Mahal, the building changes colour from dawn to dusk and looks spectacular in the moonlight. But no, no, they do not throw down a `security’ cordon around the building, or ban entry on moonlit nights like they do at Agra. And you can go in free. And, the Cathedral is almost as old as the Taj Mahal.

The Duomo at mid-day

The Duomo at sunset

The Duomo at dusk - night the moon

The Duomo at night

The amazing detailing


The inside of the Duomo





The front of the Duomo reminded me of that great symbol of Macau, the St Pauls Church which is now destroyed leaving only one wall standing. I thought the two looked similar,leaving aside the filligree, but then again, that’s my opinion. Have a look at the photos. Do you agree?



The other great building is the main train station. This is quite nice. There are a few sundry buildings, but, they are neither here nor there. The famous La Scala is disappointing from the outside.

The main station building

The main station building


A modern building in the skylin

A close up of the building

Galleria Vittorio Emmanuel

Inside Galleria Vittorio Emmanuel



The old city around the Duomo has higgledy piggeldy streets, a map-makers nightmare and a tourist’s headache. Every open space is a Piazza named after somebody causing still more confusion as then you need to look at two street names to get your bearings. Outside the centre, the roads are better planned and the architecture is quite like Barcelona. In the older part of town you have the shops of the famous fashion brands.

A great Latin building


Beautiful balconies

Ugly balconies

Milan has lots and lots of cafes and sandwich bars like London City or New York has. The Panini has been made into an art form by the Milanese and you can get them in a variety of fillings with dried meat, cured meat, cooked meat, cheese, vegetables all over in stalls called Paninoteca’s. They are quite delicious and perfect at lunch. After a Panini it’s time for an ice cream. The ice creams are delicious. You could have a non milk based sorbet type ice cream made with fresh fruit or the heavier milk based ones. The texture is something special quite unlike what you get anywhere else in the world.

Milan has a few very famous shops for the gastronomically inclined. You can have a really good ice cream at the Gelateria Passerini where we had a scoop of cinnamon and chestnut each. The cinnamon was really cinnamon, no mistaking it for anything else. The Giovanni Galli sweet shop is nice, but the greater and more impressive one is the Pasticceria Conferreria Cova on Montenapoleone. This is very chic and with top quality, excellently crafted pastries. Have a look at the photo with the Ferrari cake. The most impressive of the shops is the Gastronomica Peck, a real powerhouse of a shop. Meats, cheeses, pastas. Wines, breads, oils and vinegars of all types are available here. The dried meats are sliced to your specification with a smile, vacuum packed, wrapped in foil and then beautifully packed for you to take home. Have a look at the photo.


The Ferrari cake

A packet from Peck

Monday, September 12, 2011

Monza


Motor car racing was a natural consequence that followed the invention of the motor car. Man has always had a desire for speed. The car was invented in Western Europe, mass produced in America and developed from a luxury, to a necessity to a necessary luxury, if you know what I mean. Car racing also developed in the West, however, in the last few years we have had a huge surge of interest in motorsport throughout Asia.

I watched F1 on TV for many years till, in 2007, we went for our first F1 race to Sepang in Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia. We were left gasping at the spectacle. The sheer noise of the cars is the most striking and lasting feature. Adrenaline rushes thru your veins the moment you hear the sound. You may be a kilometre away, walking towards the track when the sound hits you and leaves you in a terribly excited state. At Malaysia we were novices, we have now learnt that you don’t take a bus to get to the circuit, which, due to its very nature, is located miles out of the city. The next time was Istanbul, Turkey where we had our own car. This is what we did in Shanghai as well. All our races thus far were modern Asian tracks (I am qualifying Turkey as Asia for the purpose of this blog, though they may well disagree). Great facilities, lots of space, lots of food, lots of stalls and endless entertainment while you wait for the race to start. Then, we went to Barcelona which was a huge disappointment facility wise. An old stadium, poor access and a poor experience. I thought I would not go to another F1 in Western Europe again, after all, there are so many new tracks opening in Asia – Korea, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain and now Noida!! But, the bug bit and we made it to Monza. The home of Ferrari, scarlet fever, the Tifosi, what an evocative image for a fan.

Everything in Milan was geared around the F1. Hotels had packages, they had higher rates, shows, and promos what have you. On Friday before the race we were sitting at a bar in the Duomo area when on the next table there were 4 older men in Rugby World Cup T Shirts. They were South African as was apparent from their accents and their T Shirts. Soon we became pals and it turned out they were here for the race too. One of them was a Mercedes Benz dealer in SA and the whole lot had flown into Frankfurt, hired a car and were in Milan. They drove thru Parma, ate ham, drove thru Marranelo the home of Ferrari and recounted with sheer delight the fact that the Municipal office in Modena has at its very centre, a Ferrari!! That was fun.

To put things in perspective, a normal F1 race has about 125,000 fans attending, most by car or bus, since, as I said earlier, F1 tracks are located in the backs-of-beyond. You have to have deep logistics just for people and vehicle management at the track. I am not even dealing with the hotels, the facilities for the teams, airports to fly in the teams, cars, equipment, container trucks, computer equipment, catering, hospitality, well, I could go on and on. Monza is a small town some 13 kms out of the centre of Milan. The track is in the centre of what is known as Parc De Monza an 800 hectare green park, much like Hyde Park in London except much, much larger. This itself is a lesson for all greens, `jholawallas', do gooders, NGO types in India. Here is one of the most extravagant sports, with the world’s richest people, causing noise pollution, burning precious fossil fuels, with a mega giant carbon footprint, all happening in an 800 hectare green belt. Not a word of protest and its happened 81 times in the past.

Monza is holding its 82nd F1 race. I am sorry to say the experience for the fan getting and leaving the circuit is truly challenging. Well this is Italy, logic is not part of their DNA, design and engineering is. We had to catch a local train from Milan to Monza. Getting tickets was a drama. 3 counters and 1000 people. Then from Monza station you get a free shuttle bus which drops you off in the grand Parc. You then walk for 40 minutes at a fair clip, in the sun, thru fields, to reach the circuit. Here, the gates are kept minimally open, thus a classis bottleneck. It was fairly exhausting and an exercise in patience. The only reason why nothing bad happens is that Europeans are generally good natured and allow you person space. Getting back is repeating the whole saga. This you have to do twice, Saturday for qualifying and Sunday for race day. I believe that this experience is only one quarter of the mayhem we will have at Noida.

So my thoughts are that it makes no sense anymore to go to a F1 race in Europe with its `thakela’ circuits and infrastructure. The same situation exists with airports. Before Heathrow T5 came up the airports in the East – HK, Sin, BKK were all mind boggling. My wonderful theory was neatly pierced by Her Highness who said, “the only circuits that you have not had private transport are the European ones, that is why you don’t like them.” Since the Queen can do no wrong, I have to say she has a point.

However, all that became academic the moment you entered the circuit and hear that piercing whine of an engine revving at a mind numbing 18,000 RPM. You cannot even imagine how much that is. If you are driving at 60 kmph and you look at your tachometer in your car it will show 1500 RPM. Imagine, 18,000 RPM. It’s awesome. A Formula 1 car idles at more than 1500 RPM!!! All frustration, despair, doubts immediately disappeared.

We had got for ourselves Kangaroo TV or what is now known as Fanvision. This is a small hand held device linked to the F1 feed. So you get on the device, radio commentary, TV images, and stats on the race, live and in real time. This is truly a great piece of equipment and something you absolutely must get when going for an F1 race.

Our seats were along the start line. I have taken a few photos of how the excitement builds, or to put it differently, how an F! Race is a built up for us as punters and them as drivers.

Everybody must go and see an F1 race at least once. It’s a stunning experience.
The long walk thru the Parc

Seated in the grandstand

Drivers parade


HRN the Queen of Kutch with Fanvision - her personal TV set

Marching band playing, would you believe it, Louie Louie


Precisely placing the position boards

Grid girls, holding the position board and a flag of the drivers nationality

The start of the build up

The first equipment rolls up

The car arrives with mechanics, guests and press

The whole filled grid

Alonso

Hamilton


Bernie Eccelstone

All extra people out, only crucial start up mechanics

Grid cleared before the warm up lap



The mad rush to the pits by mechanics after the cars are on warm up lap


At the start


And they are off