From the time I was a child, going for dinner
to the Taj Mahal hotel at Apollo Bunder [Gateway of India] was something really
special. You dressed for the occasion and excitement steadily built up. After
dinner, as a special treat you were allowed into Nalanda, the book shop which
was open late into the night, where you were allowed to buy a book. The aura of
going to the Taj for dinner has never left me. The Taj was and continues to be
quite special to many.
Much has changed from the times I went there
are a child. The Shamiana has been relocated and its space filled by the
Starboard Bar, The Rendezvous, a French restaurant on the top floor, has now
become the Souk a restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine [not the Pasta Pizza
type but more Levantine]. The old Tanjore has now become Masala Kraft [their
spelling]. Neither HRH the Queen nor I had been to eat at Masala Kraft. So we
thought why not have a drink at the Royal Bombay Yacht Club and walk across to
Masala Kraft for dinner. So we called and made a reservation for 8.45 pm. I
looked at the website and found to my considerable surprise, the Taj Mumbai has
the menus for all its restaurants online. The menu looked promising though not
unusual nor distinctive. The dress code specified `Smart Casual’. I wondered
whether I should wear a jacket without a tie as that is what smart casual is in
Europe. HRH dismissed my thoughts and said, pityingly, that a simple trouser
and shirt would do. “Why do you not wear a jacket when we go to the ITC?” she
asked. “How is this different” she continued? As always, her logic was impeccable. I protested weakly, the Taj was special, but to no
avail. Shirt and trousers it was.
The Taj website says that the Masala Kraft “started with a dream of Chef Hemant Oberoi
to retrace authentic Indian cuisine. It became "Masala" a circle of
restaurants where time-tested ingredients are given a new life. Gone are the
masks of butter, cream, and gravy. Instead we use extra virgin oil and
researched preparation techniques to retain the authentic flavors.” The
Menu says “traditional masalas or spices are
artfully blended with an eclectic mix of classic and unconventional ingredients,
to create new renditions of authentic preparations, each unmistakably light, yet
bursting with colour, aroma and flavour”.
I say bollocks! The food was
rubbish, dull in flavour, utterly boring and something that many ordinary
restaurants do much better. As far as the claim of the food bursting with
colour, it did not! It was the traditional brown red like all Indian food
unfortunately is. You can be the judge of the colour when you have a look at
the photos.
Since you have my verdict in the fourth paragraph, I will spare you the bother of reading thru this and you have the
choice of getting back to work.
The restaurant has a couple of levels to make
it less visually dull. The wooden pillars from the Tanjore are still there. The
tables are large, quite large and reasonably placed to provide some privacy.
Despite it being Friday night, 8.45 pm during Mumbai’s approaching tourist
season the restaurant was only about 75% full with a vast majority being
foreigners, probably hotel guests. When we left at 10.15 it was still not full.
There were lots and lots of waiters, Captains, Restaurant managers, hostesses,
barman and a Sommelier mincing his way thru the restaurant. All the staff
operated in a rather languorous manner. The word "Susegad" comes to mind. They
all needed a jolt of lightening or dare I say it, the brandishing of an AK 47
to get them to work. I could provide neither. All very friendly, or more
correctly, affable, I must say but rather ineffectual.
Soon after we were seated, a bowl of very
South Indian fried goodies appeared on our table with a very peculiar chutney,
neither tamarind nor tomato, and not particularly good. Along with this were crudités
which were wilting and dried out. Unacceptable. Then we got an Amuse Bouche - A Dahi Batata Puri which HRH pronounced as soggy. Cute touch, would get most foreigners rather tickled.
|
The South Indian Fried chips |
|
Dahi Batata Puri |
We ordered two starters. The first was
outstanding, I honestly say so. This was Haleem Ke Kebab. Haleem was spread on
some kind of Channa Daal Roti and grilled. Absolutely first class. Dish of the
evening, unique, tasty and using the Haleem in a modern twist. The second starter
was Prawn Balchau Roll. Prawn Balchau is a pickle and should therefore be oily,
spicy and tangy as you need the acid to prevent spoilage. Here the Prawn
Balchau was very mild, without any tang and frankly tasted like a prawn fished out
from a Prawn Curry. This was wrapped in a Rice Bhakri. The dish had a
fundamental problem. It was impossible to serve without disintegrating, as you
can see in the photo. Silly dish. Innovation for the sake of it. They would
have been better off as a Prawn Balchau served as is with a Rice Bhakri on the
side. A Prawn Pickle in its true form real is quite unique without all these unnecessary gimmicks.
|
Haleem Ke Kebab |
|
Prawn Balchau Roll |
For our main course we ordered one of our
favourite dishes – Nehari or Lamb Shanks in a red sauce/gravy that is often
thickened with collagen or sometimes flour. At Masala Kraft they call it
Dum Ki Nalli. At the Dum Pukht in the ITC they call it Hyderabadi Nehari and at
Delhi Durbar they call it Mutton Nehari. The dish is basically the same. Lamb
shanks slow cooked in a gravy which is then strained resulting the finished
product being a piece of meat falling of the bone with a smooth sauce. Here at
Masala Kraft it ticked all the boxes except in the flavour department.
Everything was muted, very muted and they could not achieve the clarity that
the gravy at ITC manages. The other dish we ordered was the old Parsi warhorse,
Sali Murgi Ma Zardaloo – Chicken cooked with Apricots and topped with straw
potato. Looked Ok, but once again such terribly muted flavours. My friend the Big Fromage Tax Lawyer's mother without any formal training makes a much
better Sali Murgi Ma Zardaloo as do the very ordinary Ideal Corner at Gunbow
Street or Britannia at Sprott Road. Dare I say it again; the Chefs needed the
brandishing of an AK 47 to get them to work. As a moment of whimsy HRH ordered
a Chilli Olive Naan. Very attractive looking, rather normal tasting. What more would
you want from a Naan?
|
The Dum Ki Nalli |
|
Dum Ki Nalli Gravy |
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Sali Murgi Ma Zardaloo |
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Chili Olive Naan |
Have you had a look at the photos? Does the
food look “unmistakably light, yet
bursting with colour”? Not to me it does not.
I know what you are all thinking as you read
this. Stonethrower, you are a fool, what did you expect? This is all for
foreigners, for tourists. You deserve what you got. I do not want to even get
into a Maharashtra Navnirman Sena [MNS] type argument that the Taj should be
shut down for catering to foreigners and all food should be Batata Chi Sukhi Bhaji, Poli, Bhat, Paplet,
Koshimbir ani Amti. I ask you my friends; does the ITC have a sign outside reminiscent
of the British Raj saying “Foreigners and Dogs Not Allowed”? I mean come on
guys get real. Is this the food we want to portray to some of the richest and
most powerful who visit Mumbai? I understand that spice can be an issue but
this kind of tomfoolery of Olive Oil and vibrant colour? I mean we Indian are
not dropping like flies eating oil and ghee we have a billion and more souls in
this country all hale and hearty. How can you be so presumptuous to suggest
that Indian food is unhealthy and can be eaten only if made with olive oil? Am
I stepping into MNS territory here? In my view this is a restaurant surviving on a
captive audience, unmotivated staff, lazy and slothful. The lack of competition
has killed them. Harsh words but in my view very true.
To have a great Indian meal, lavish,
expensive, no holds barred, eat at the Peshawari, Dum Pukth or Dakshin in the
ITC. Or else eat at Trishna, or, if your guests are adventurous enough Mahesh,
Gajalee, Apoorva or Great Punjab. Are they not catering to tourists as well? Is their food this watered down rubbish touted with marketing verbiage of "bright vibrant colour and flavour"? Give the Taj Mahal Mumbai a miss. They have misssed the plot.
You know something, Bill Clinton and Barack Obama both ate at Bukhara - the original Peshawari. I doubt they ate at Masala Kraft.